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Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIV
Part XV
Martin Reynolds




Guitar Restoration
Restoring Millring's H1260 (updated 5/12/2014)
Part I
The guitar as I got it from Millring.
Disassembly - After removing the strings I gave the guitar a light cleaning, just to remove dust and debris. The end pin needs to come out so the body will sit upright while refitting the neck. I have a tool designed to pull old stubborn end pins. It is made of brass and screws down tight on the pin.
Give it a good twist and the pin comes loose.

Next I remove the tuners. The tuner shafts have bushings that are easy to remove with the tuners off but sometimes difficult with them on. The rubber band keeps the loose bushings in place while I remove the tuner mounting screws.
These are Kluson Deluxe tuners, the originals were old Waverly. The Klusons were not installed properly so the headstock cracked. I can remove the mounting screws and the rubber band will hold the tuners in place.
With the screws out I put the headstock over the bench and remove the rubber band. The tuners drop off and leave the bushings intact. Now I can remove the bushing with less trouble and less chance of dropping a bushing, which I have done a few times. They are a PITA to find once they hit the floor. I won't need the bushings any more but I do like to save them for future replacement of lost ones.
While the neck is still on I want to do something about the pickguard area. Doing this now allows me to hold the guitar in my neck vise while I clean up all that left over glue. Using a long chisel to get under the glue I work either with the grain or at a 45% angle to the grain but never against the grain.
Once I have the majority of glue removed I change my grip and use the chisel like a scraper blade to get the last bit of glue. As long as I don't get outside of the pickguard area I may even remove a little finish.
The bottom edge of the sound hole has quite a bit of wear. I clean this area with a pencil eraser and then seal it with a coat of lacquer retarder. This has a hint of lacquer in it and will protect the bare wood until I get around to fixing the problem. Once dry it will be clear.
The next job is also easier done with the neck held in the vise so I'll take care of it before removing the neck. I don't have an original pickguard to copy so I'll have to make a template from the shadow left by the old pickguard. Using some tracing paper taped in place I will pencil in the shape as close as possible.
Sometimes doing more of a rubbing than a tracing is what works best, but between the two techniques I will get a good rough outline.
Later I will take a French Curve and clean up all the lines.
Continue to Part II
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